Braze ons are all those little things that make a bike more or less useful. Think cantilever brake bosses and rack mounts and pump pegs and water bottle bosses.

Cantilever/V-Brake bosses for a single pair, frame or fork $125-$150

To remove a single pair of old bosses and then install new pair of bosses, frame or fork $180-$200

Hard mount studs for direct mounting center pull brakes $185 for a single pair, frame or fork

Rear ISO disk tab & stiffener bridge $275-$325

Most other small braze ons $40, pair $70

Removing old braze on $25, each additional done at the same time $20

Water bottle style threaded bosses $55 each or a pair $95

Deleting old water bottle style threaded boss $55

Respacing vintage high end steel bikes to modern rear spacings so you can run more practical parts. I love vintage race bikes but hate 5 speed freewheels and 700x23 max tire size.

I can respace and align the rear triangle from that old vintage 120mm, or 126mm spacing to 130mm for modern road cassette hubs. This lets you use high quality modern 8, 9, or 10 speed cassettes on your vintage bike.

This involves mounting your frame on an alignment table. Carefully measuring the center of the frame and Cold Setting the stays a little wider on each side of the bike. Keeping them centered, then again Cold Setting the dropouts with dropout alignment tools to make sure they’re perfectly parallel to each other so they don’t add any uneven clamping pressure to the hub bearings & alignment of the rear derailleur hanger for accurate chain line and shifting.

Slightly tweaked forks can also be aligned by clamping the forks steer tube in an alignment jig, carefully measuring the fork and Cold Setting it back into alignment and using the drop out alignment tools on the fork dropouts to make sure they’re perfectly parallel too. And I do mean slightly tweaked. Bent forks usually can’t be saved.

Dimpling, adding 5mm or so dimples to the chain stays to fit wider tires $100, (frame will also need to have the rear triangle aligned, because the dimpling process sucks in the rear alignment)

Aligning, frame with no parts installed at all, as needed after dimpling or wanting to use a different size rear hub, aligned/centered rear triangle to 130mm, or 135mm, (Includes drop out and derailleur hanger alignment) $100-150

Drop out alignment $25-$50

Rear derailleur alignment $25-$50

Fork alignment $65-$100

Re-raking the fork blades for more offset, this includes fork alignment $100-$150

The price goes up depending on how much of the bike needs to be disassembled and reassembled in order to get it on the alignment table. Normal labor rates apply. At minimum the wheels, bottom bracket, most of the headset and bottle cages need to be removed. But I prefer working on frames with no parts installed at all, (with the exception of pressed in headset cups)

A la cart frame prep:

Reaming and facing 1” head tube to ISO 30.2 or 1 1/8th threadless $100

Facing/Cutting crown race 1” threaded to 26.4, or 1 1/8th to 30.0 $65

Facing and thread chasing English threaded bottom bracket shell $100

Running a seat tube reamer in your frame 27.2, 26.8, 25.4, or 31.8 $65

Reaming the seat tube to any other size add $75

Cleaning powder coating out of dropouts or canti bosses $50

Tapping rack or water bottle bosses $25 for the first boss $15 per additional boss.

Chasing fork threads $50

Cutting additional fork threads $50+ $35 per extra inch

Full frame prep combo package, includes all services listed above $400

*A full frame prep comes free with every custom frame. Both pre and post paint or powder coating.

*Full or at least partial frame prep is needed on most new bikes or bike with new liquid paint jobs. Full frame prep is almost always needed for bikes with thick fresh powder coating.

*Price triples for cutting stainless-steel

Base price is $450+

Matching detachable lowriders in 3/8 tubing add $650

Full size rear racks, porter front racks and cargo racks start at $600 and go up based on design and complexity.

*raw/unpainted. I don’t paint or powder coat. But can help arrange that, drop off or pick up. I use CC Coating in Portland for powder. It’s a $200 minimum per color. Often adding extra parts or accessories only adds $20-$40 bucks.

For example, frame and fork $200. Frame, fork, rack, stem $240.

There are two very good liquid painters of bike frames in Portland; Black Magic and Color FX, both start at around $700 for simple one color paint jobs, parts and accessories, panels, lugs, pinstriping and box lining can easily double or quadruple it.

I charge $50 each trip to pick up and drop off as it takes time and energy, sometimes the liquid painters will pick up and drop off for free.

I only use the highest quality lightest lightweight 4130 Chromoly Aircraft tubing for making stems, racks and or Decaleurs to fit your every desire and flawlessly fit your bike. That means they aren’t adjustable with lots of big heavy brackets and clunky hardware.

I use your frame/fork as the jig to make racks that fit perfectly. they will sit as low to the fender as possible. Be as light and elegant as possible. Do what they are intended for 10x better than the best racks on the market and weigh less and fit better and look 10x better while doing it. And probably not fit anything else.

This also means I need to have at least the fork in my shop to build a front rack. Plan accordingly.

While I love French Flip J bend Rando blades and vintage lugged crowns and 1” threaded steer tubes, I’ll make just about any kind of steel fork. Track, road, touring, gravel. Threaded or threadless, for whatever brakes and tire clearances your heart desires. Well as long as it’s safe and sound, doesn’t look like it belongs on a dump truck.

Forks are priced all over the place and the amount or extra work that goes into them depending on design can change the price dramatically.

The base price is for a threadless road or track fork with a lugged fork crown for side pull caliper brake with or without fender eyes. Made with all Columbus tubes. It all goes up from there with complexness and added braze ons or details.

Base price Simple lugged road or track is $500

Base price Low trail Randonnée or touring with cantilever boss and rack mounts $700

Disk forks add $150-$300

Price goes up from there as the design gets more complex with brake, rack, wiring mounts, weird sizes, shapes, ect.

*raw, paint, powder or chrome is extra.

Handmade frame sets made the traditional way. No big machines, no factory like repetitions. Just wooden tube blocks, hack saws, hand files, and an old school oxy acetylene torch with bronze and silver to flow into the highest quality aircraft tubing available. Usually a mixture of Columbus tubing.

No two bikes are ever the same. Every frame is a unique work of art.

Every frame is hand made one at a time to my mood, my taste, my experience. There are no instructions, no foremen or managers. I’m the only person in the shop, and I’m an artist not a factory worker. And I don’t care about time or cost or factory standards or ideals. I care about beauty and functionality and performance and quality. I make functional art, not just bicycles.

Something I realized at Norther, I can’t build custom stuff by hand for the price of small batch frames made over Sea’s, or by guys that build everything exactly the same way with big machines doing the cutting and the welding practically for them. I’m not even going to try.

I’ve heard of guys that can make several frames a day, no frills exactly the same bike, each joint cut the same in a mill, each joint Tig welded exactly the same. A product in a small factory. I’m sure they’re very good, but they don’t do anything for me.

A lot of guys list cheaper prices for their frames, but it’s for basic frames that are tig welded. The price goes up dramatically $600-$900 for fillet brazed frames, and up another $1,000 or more for lugs. All things being equal my frames are pretty competitive, and since I focus on tradition frames, I think mine come out looking better stylistically. Every detail intentional and cohesive.

I specialize in 650b Randonneur, Touring, City/Commuter bikes. But, will make 700c and 26” wheeled bikes as well.

Base price is $2,999

(Simple lugged silver brazed road or track with 700c wheels and 23-32mm tires or 26” wheels and 1.5 tires for small frames. With currently available lugs and fork crown, and most available standard or single oversized tube sets 1” threaded or 1 1/8th threadless.

lugged silver brazed Randonnée or touring bike base price starts at $3,999

With clearance for 650b x 42, or 48mm tires with full fender mounts basic dynamo wiring guides and cantilever brakes and front rack mounts

Price goes up from there as the design gets more complex with brake, rack, wiring mounts, weird sizes, shapes, vintage lugs and fork crowns ect.

Every bike I make is fully custom and one of a kind piece of bike art as well as one of the most interesting and rare one-of-a-kind artisan bikes ever made. And in that spirit, I mostly do what I want the way the particular bike and customer move me.

I want you to be in love with the bike, so I want to know what you are feeling and thinking for the bike, what the intended use is, and what you are thinking on size and fit.

Sending lots of detail shots from bike you love helps! I believe in 1940’s French lightweight design, and fit. Short seat posts, long top tubes for short stems and optimal handlebar bag placement behind the front hubs center line. I believe in low trail, and bikes designed to carry weight and fit fenders well. I believe in level top tubes or slight rise top tubes with head lug extensions, vintage dropouts and lugs and pain in the ass, but elegant and beautiful antiquated technology. Classic styling and neo-retro styling with modern performance. Classic lines and modern silver parts.

If you have any specific requests on styling I will need to know that ahead of time. As once I do the planning and lay out and cut tubes and silver braze metal the work it is done! Changes mid-way through the process add lots of expense. So tell me now if you want a specific thing or really don’t want a specific detail that will bug you if it’s not typical to my style, because I will not make changes after the bike is done. For example, if you want a comfortable touring bike but hate head lug extensions or hate vertical dropouts or hate traditional tab style dropouts or a specific seat stay cap style. Let me know first or live with it forever! I want to make bikes that you will love and want to keep forever. A bike that looks and functions better than any mass-produced bike, a bike that makes sense and is intuitive to keep working it’s best. Used handmade bikes make me sad, and feel like a lack communication, or chasing fickle fads that lose out as fads change.

Please shoot me an email if you have a deposit ready and wish for me to build you a bike. If it’s something I like I’ll accept your deposit and get you in line. Frames can take 6 months or more depending on workflow, painter’s workflow, and how fast they can be funded by the customer and components/accessories being in stock and readily available.

*And I do mean framesets, frame and fork! I don’t make frames designed for or around plastic forks… usually ;)

Wrenching & Repairs: does not include Parts/Accessories/Hardware

Installing new tube and/or tire $25

Removing and reinstalling cranks and bottom bracket, such as needed to align a frame or replace a worn-out bottom bracket $50

Installing a bottom bracket $50-75 if we know the size, $100 if I need to do some detective work to figure out the size

Removing and reinstalling a fork, such as needed to align the fork $50

Installing a new headset $100

Custom metal fender installation $150- $200 Velo Orange or PDW, $200-$250 Honjos

Rinko a fender $100+

Plastic fenders $50+

Rack install $35-$155

Wiring/installing a dynamo light $45 externally, $60+internal/under fender each light

Installing and/or tuning/adjusting a derailleur or brake $35-$50

Installing a single new Cable & Housing $40 each, or $150 for all four brak & shift

Wrap handlebars with foam tape $40 bare bars, $60 remove old and wrap with new tape

Wrap bars with cloth tape and Shellack, twine and cork $125

Full frame up custom mechanical build (not including fenders/dynamo lights $550)

Full overhauls, stripping bike to bare frame, cleaning and servicing all components and rebuilding with most original parts and replacing all worn parts $650

Tune ups $150-$250

Stripping a bike off all parts and accessories, such as needed to get it sandblasted/painted $65

Generally solving problems, and saving frames no one else can figure out $100 per hour, minimum $100

Packing a bike for shipping $65

Taking a bike box to UPS or the Post office with premade labels, you email me $50

If I have to fill out the labels online and purchase from you, or go stand in line and fill out paperwork, and get a quote $100

Add $50 to return to the post office and stand in line again to mail it.

Consulting fee:

I charge $60 per hour for consulting, minimum one hour, and a full $60 for any part of any additional hours.

My experience, esoteric knowledge, insight and expertise, as well as my time is valuable, and will save you lots of costly mistakes and waisted time. Consulting is much less expensive than buying lots of parts and accessories that will not fit your bike or work well or at all, and will need to be returned or clutter up your life.

I’m happy to answer a few simple questions, or estimate requests free of charge, in person, via email or Instagram DM, but once it goes over a few short questions the consulting fee must be applied.

Consulting fees cover answering your questions and making recommendations for your project, general questions about parts and accessories compatibility, fit, both physically and aesthetically. Planning out your project and any other bike-related questions or comments you may have about your project or anything at all that keeps me from doing other paid work. You can talk about the Tour, or your personal life if you want but the meter will be running.

Consulting fee applies to any research or parts hunting, errands, packing your bike for shipping, and ordering shipping labels or standing in line at the post office, or anything else you ask me to do for you, including basic Google searches, checking Sheldon Brown dot com, Ebay, Craigslist or FB marketplace for you.

Removing broken seat stay caps & replacing with plugs $250-$350 single, ($450-$550 pair)

Adding or Replacing a Bridge $150-$200

Replacing a damaged tube $600 fillet brazed, $900+ lugged

Replacing a broken drop-out $300-$400 ($550-$650 pair)

Cutting off a damaged derailleur hanger and brazing on a new one $175+

Braze over a crack $100 (each crack)

Add an external patch to a crack $150

Internally sleeve a crack or replace a part of a tube with internal sleeve $450+

Thread repair: brazing over damaged fork, or bottom bracket threads and then running the thread cutter over them $150-$350

Other repairs ask for quotes